Seeing China Differently: An Ultrarunner’s Journey of Discovery

The vastness of China, a country often perceived through a singular lens, reveals its true depth and diversity when explored at the pace of an ultrarunner. Ria Xi, a Chinese ultrarunner, embarked on a remarkable 20,000-kilometer journey from Vladivostok, Russia, to Cabo da Roca, Portugal. Her passage through China, spanning over four months and nine provinces, offered her a profound and personal understanding of her homeland, far beyond any preconceived notions. This journey wasn’t just about physical endurance; it was a deep dive into the varied cultures, landscapes, and people that shape China, ultimately leading her to set a Fastest Known Time (FKT) for crossing the country.

Ria, born in Beijing, had spent the last decade living abroad, first in the tech hub of Silicon Valley and then embracing a nomadic lifestyle of van travel and ultramarathon running. Her return to run across China provided a unique perspective, challenging the common stereotypes of what China and its people represent. She discovered that the country is a mosaic of distinct regional identities, lifestyles, and traditions, a reality often overlooked when focusing on a single cultural narrative. Her experiences highlight how a slower, more immersive approach can unveil the complex tapestry of a nation.

A Country Revealed at Running Pace

The physical demands of ultrarunning across China were immense, pushing Ria to her limits. The Gobi Desert presented one of the most formidable challenges, with temperatures soaring to 45 degrees Celsius in September. This extreme heat necessitated a shift in her running schedule to evenings and nights, while her support crew had to retreat during the day. The relentless routine and lack of consistent rest took a significant psychological toll, leaving Ria feeling perpetually tired and unrested.

Despite the harsh conditions, the journey was marked by unexpected warmth and support from the people she encountered. Passing motorists in the Gobi Desert frequently stopped to check on her well-being, offering gestures of concern that were deeply heartwarming. This human connection provided a vital source of encouragement during the most difficult stretches of her run. Similarly, the people of Shanxi Province demonstrated exceptional hospitality, hosting her in their cities, running alongside her, and sharing their local sights and food. One particularly memorable gesture involved a runner bringing two large jugs of local vinegar, a treat Ria, a vinegar enthusiast herself, greatly appreciated.

Beyond these acts of kindness, Ria also met individuals actively contributing to their communities’ development. Near Xi’an, the capital of Shaanxi Province, she encountered a local entrepreneur dedicated to revitalizing her town’s economy through a tree-based industry and honey export. This woman also empowered older residents by teaching them traditional handicrafts, enabling them to earn income and support their families. Ria found this initiative inspiring, recognizing that progress and ambition were not confined to China’s major urban centers. She also met a businessman who, after traveling on foot to return to his hometown, was focused on strengthening the local economy and fostering new industries. These encounters revealed a China where people were actively working to preserve their heritage while simultaneously building new opportunities within their own communities.

Ria Xi on the Duku Highway, a route that connects the northern and southern parts of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, northwest China.

A Record with Personal Meaning

The pursuit of a Fastest Known Time (FKT) for crossing China emerged organically during Ria’s journey. She discovered the possibility of an FKT while researching her route, approximately 80% of the way through her Chinese segment. Learning that another ultrarunner had submitted a route for approval ignited her competitive spirit. She felt a strong desire for a Chinese person, particularly a woman, to hold this record for her own country.

The achievement carried a deep personal significance for Ria, resonating with the evolving role of women in China. She recalled her mother sharing stories of foot-binding, a historical practice associated with beauty standards for Chinese women. In contrast, Ria’s own journey represented a powerful symbol of modern Chinese women breaking barriers and achieving remarkable feats in demanding endurance sports. For her, setting the FKT was more than just a test of speed or distance; it was a chance to represent her country and demonstrate the capabilities of Chinese women on a global stage. This accomplishment connected her personal journey to a broader narrative of progress and empowerment.

Ria Xi running through the Gobi Desert.

Running as a Shared Language

Ria’s journey extended beyond personal achievement; it became a platform for connection and community building. As she continued her travels into Kazakhstan, she fostered a global running community through her Planetary Run Club. During her time in China, an estimated 83 people joined her for segments of her run, representing a diverse group from running clubs in Beijing to smaller cities like Huludao and Qinhuangdao. This shared experience of running transcended geographical and cultural boundaries, creating a sense of camaraderie among participants.

Her experience running across China also reshaped her perspective on global perceptions of the country. She observed China’s advancements in renewable energy and its innovative approaches to data center development, recognizing that the nation was forging its own path in various technological and developmental sectors. Ria believes that China offers a unique model for how progress can be achieved, one that holds valuable lessons for other countries. Her journey provided her with a deeper understanding of why China pursues its own solutions and what it can contribute to the global community.

The months spent traversing China left Ria with a heightened sense of curiosity rather than a feeling of having seen it all. While she gained a better understanding of the country, she acknowledged that exploring only nine provinces was just a glimpse of China’s vast offerings. The experience fueled a desire to see more, to continue uncovering the diverse landscapes and communities that make up her homeland.

With thousands of kilometers still ahead before reaching her final destination in Portugal, Ria continues her exploration of new terrains and cultures. However, the profound experiences and personal growth gained during her months crossing China have irrevocably altered her perception of home. For a country she thought she knew, she discovered an endless capacity for exploration, proving that there is always more to discover, one kilometer at a time.

Editor’s Note: Denique Daniëls is a multimedia editor for CGTN Digital. This article is part of China in Motion, a recurring column that explores contemporary Chinese life through movement – from running and walking to the design of public space, health culture and community. By observing cities at a human pace, the series captures how ordinary routines shape the experience of life in China.

Ria Xi taking a breather during one of her runs through China.

Conclusion

Ria Xi’s extraordinary journey across China, culminating in a Fastest Known Time record, serves as a powerful testament to the transformative nature of immersive exploration. Her experience underscores the idea that understanding a nation, especially one as vast and diverse as China, requires moving beyond superficial perceptions and engaging with its realities at a human pace. By running through its varied landscapes and interacting with its people, Ria gained a nuanced appreciation for the country’s rich cultural tapestry, its regional identities, and the ambitions of its citizens. Her story challenges common stereotypes and highlights the importance of personal discovery in reshaping one’s perspective on home. The journey has not only left her with a remarkable athletic achievement but also with a deeper, more complex understanding of China, inspiring a continued desire to explore its many facets.